Boom Boom called from the beach at 7."It's light outside! The waves
are six inches. Let's go out and paddle around." I told her my rule
on that, so she asked me to watch so she "didn't drown".
The howling westerlies squashed the swell to a foot or two. Tide
was blowout low, and only striper guys throwing clams into the water
were on the beach. The swell was breaking on the sandbar, which was out
about 75-100 yards. The wind gradually increased from the west.
Not a cloud in the sky. Boom Boom caught a few waves and stood up
once. They were breaking fast, so it was a bit tricky. She wiped
out on the other waves - she said she closes her eyes. Fun to watch.
Somehow Boom Boom had waxed her board so that the bumps formed
bizarre fractal patterns evenly on the entire board. Like strange
beadwork. She thinks its normal.